Thread: DIY Carbon Fiber Rifle Stock

i tried some of the cannedfoam to bulk out my foam decoys-hot shit mama -some went from flat to more chins than a hong kong phone book.ive a parrie hen who is now so fat she reminds me of a poli sittin on the shit house!

Originally Posted by Chilli_Dog

Do you have any pictures of the tabs for the butt joint?

You could probably save a fair bit of weight by vacum bagging it.... then it's just a small step to a one piece stock with a latex bladder

@Chilli_Dog No I didn't get any photos of tabs, but will take more detailed pictures when I build the carbon fibre stock.

Would love to try vacuum bag, but unfortunately I don't have a vacuum pump.

Originally Posted by Robojaz

@Chilli_Dog No I didn't get any photos of tabs, but will take more detailed pictures when I build the carbon fibre stock.

Would love to try vacuum bag, but unfortunately I don't have a vacuum pump.

If your near Wellington I can lend you one.

Originally Posted by Robojaz

@Chilli_Dog No I didn't get any photos of tabs, but will take more detailed pictures when I build the carbon fibre stock.

Would love to try vacuum bag, but unfortunately I don't have a vacuum pump.

You can buy vacuums bags from mitre10 Briscoes etc. Used for storing clothes etc in but would easily work for a stock. Bags are quite big and just have a valve and use you vacuum. In amazed at the pressure they apply.

I am not sure those vacuum bags would work for a a mold like that unless you use them on each half of the mould first, then let the resin dry, then removing the vaccuum bags and sticking the two Hal together.
You can look at resin infusion as well. That is another way of doing it.

In additon to some of what others have said you can do pretty budget vacuum bagging, I have used the plastic bags from mattresses, cut out and taped to the top of the mold. You have to make sure its bunched up enough to go into tha cavity without stretching. I used a vacuum cleaner, it was a karcher one which seems to have a bypass so the motor didn't overheat. Peel plies and bleeder plies help too

Originally Posted by 2post

If your near Wellington I can lend you one.

Thanks for the offer, that is very generous. I will see how I go.

Originally Posted by Remmodel7

You can buy vacuums bags from mitre10 Briscoes etc. Used for storing clothes etc in but would easily work for a stock. Bags are quite big and just have a valve and use you vacuum. In amazed at the pressure they apply.

Thanks, I will check them out, I also thought of using shredder bags, if they are strong enough.

Originally Posted by Friwi

I am not sure those vacuum bags would work for a a mold like that unless you use them on each half of the mould first, then let the resin dry, then removing the vaccuum bags and sticking the two Hal together.
You can look at resin infusion as well. That is another way of doing it.

Yeah that is what I would likely do. Particularly the way I have constructed my mold. I am guessing Resin infusion, would require a pretty strong vacuum pump??

Originally Posted by Chilli_Dog

In additon to some of what others have said you can do pretty budget vacuum bagging, I have used the plastic bags from mattresses, cut out and taped to the top of the mold. You have to make sure its bunched up enough to go into tha cavity without stretching. I used a vacuum cleaner, it was a karcher one which seems to have a bypass so the motor didn't overheat. Peel plies and bleeder plies help too

Thanks, another good suggestion, I will have have a think and see if I can make it work.

I just use a very cheap plastic hand pump for the vacuum. Works very well with my vacuum bagging attempts with peel ply and bleeder fabric.

I got an vacuum pump out of an old fridge. plerfect for this type thing, and easily available.

Originally Posted by ANOTHERHUNTER

I got an vacuum pump out of an old fridge. plerfect for this type thing, and easily available.

Be keen to figure out what/ how you did that? could be an option for me.

I will try and get a photo. very simple, and very grunty .

if you leave the mold open on the rear and barrel channel you can glue the two halves together oce the resin has gone off enough to be able to trim the molds. that way the bond is a little stronger as the resin is chemically bonding both sides together vs mechanically