Finally have the automatic case feeder up and running. It really speeds up throughput!
Video below of Greg's annealer in operation from Wombat ordnance.
https://youtu.be/GqYSRLfobHQ
Finally have the automatic case feeder up and running. It really speeds up throughput!
Video below of Greg's annealer in operation from Wombat ordnance.
https://youtu.be/GqYSRLfobHQ
Right. Finally got my copper from aliexpress and got round to making the coil. Still not convinces it’s working properly as the water is only dribbling back into the resivour.
I have wired the temp sensor in, where do in need to put the sensor part of that? What are we temp sensing?
What current are you getting out of your induction boards? Mine is running about 8 amps and the initial testing is taking about 7.5 seconds to anneal a 708 case with the colour change just down past the bottom of shoulder
So after a few cases have been run through, is the coil hot? If it is then the water cooling isnt working, If iys still cool to the touch its probably doing its job.
After 5 cases or so without cooling it would be hot to touch.
I want to know how hot the capacitor bank is getting ( the black plastic bits ( 6 of them usually)) So I use a hot glue gun run between the two banks of 3.
If the capacitors get to hot that will kill the board. Your 8 amps sounds about right. I get 6 to 7.5 on .308 cases, but your case mouth will be a wee bit further from the coil than mine hence the slightly longer time in your case Pun intended
Hi John,what coils did you use there?
Is this thread dead? I just ordered my board with the UNO pre-programmed from MGNZ and waiting for it to show up so I can start my build. Did anyone think about adding an optical sensor above the case to measure the temp of the brass?
My favorite sentences i like to hear are - I suppose so. and Send It!
Just wondering has anyone built this annealer using the RC servo to drop the case? How did you adjust the degree ?
If I had an extra $1500 I could buy a lot of brass to fuck up. I do believe it is a very nice tool, but I know a lot of F-class shooters got buy with flame annealers before the Amp came out, yes they has sense replaced it with a AMP. But they had tobstart some where.
I have built multiple induction annealers using induction boards, power supplies and timers from Ebay. Total cost in parts to make one is generally around $400NZD
Latest one has an auto feed with case sensor that can be adjusted to feed anything from pistol cases to large ultra mag cases. Case is made from plywood and painted to look nice, water cooling on the induction coil using a small water pump and radiator.
Anyone who is interested, google the GinaErik induction annealer. There are also other designs using Arduino boards for the timing and control, which if you are going to use an auto feeder, I would recommend.
The AMP is a cool machine and good on the guys for getting them out internationally. However, in my opinion, they are overstating and overcomplicating the annealing process, which is pretty simple really. Using 2 different temp grades of Tempilaq, you can fine tune the annealers I have made to get perfect and consistent results for a new case in a few min, risking only 1 or 2 pieces of brass, and often not ruining even one. I keep a log book of the settings for different cases and can reset the machine to a different case in about 1min.
In my experience, the flame annealers are a pain in the ass to setup every time, induction is so much better.
I have read a bunch about the AMP annealer and it seems they are using a hardness test to determine at what time the brass reaches the same hardness as the new piece. I am not a programmer so I have no idea how they have this look-up file setup, but there has to be a table the computer uses. This is an interesting watch if you have the time. Care to share your copy? I will pay the shipping to and back?
https://youtu.be/SF0YmmeEJK4
Hello, I'd like to get into reloading and looked at some DIY solutions online. I came across this thread after quite a bit of browsing, and would like to say that this solution looks great! I tried to download the schematic but the dropbox link says it's deleted. I like DIY projects, and wanted to know if there is a PCB file available for download so I can get the PCB created and start building this.
Appreciate responses and your time.
Cheers.
https://www.mgnz-makes.com/ you can order the pre-made board here with or without the UNO.
Just to add if anybody is interested, I built an annealer a while back that's very similar to the one described using the same parts etc. I wanted to take the guess work out of temps and the trial and error involved.
I decided to use an IR temp sensor mounted above the coil to measure the case temp. I used the MLX90614 IR temperature sensor which gives you a range of -70 to 380C. The coil is on constantly, but the brass drops when it reaches 380C.
If anybody has found a reasonably priced IR temp sensor that goes higher I'd like to know about it.
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