Thread: DIY parkerizing

Three tricks that'll help - buy a few candy thermometers and place them strategically around the tank - your tank temps will vary depending on how you heat it, where the elements are etc. You can get cheap candy thermometers or a multi input digital thermometer. Sounds like you're handy so anything that lets you assess temp across the bath is helpful.

First used a propane heated tank which was great - propane added to a black pipe with a venturi for air mix, and thin slit cuts perpendicular to the pipe length for burners led to excellent flame distribution. A stainless tray with fine sand under the main tank gives very nice heat distribution at the cost of quick response to temperature adjustment.

Last is to do a test run in an old stainless pot on some small parts. Much faster and easier to learn, adapt etc.

Just saw you've already got the PID with thermocouple... still pays to know that the phosphate solution is at the proper temp everywhere for even finish. I realize this' a cheap project, but a multi channel PID with multiple thermocouples and heater elements would be very cool.

Originally Posted by canross

Just saw you've already got the PID with thermocouple... still pays to know that the phosphate solution is at the proper temp everywhere for even finish. I realize this' a cheap project, but a multi channel PID with multiple thermocouples and heater elements would be very cool.

That would be a cool setup. I was planning on gently stirring the tank(no splashes) until the PID controller had settled to a constant temp before immersion of the part.

I have an old machete that might get tested before any gun part, or some old tools to test the mix out.

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Where did you get the chemicals from and how much did it cost?

I got the phosphoric acid I got from a place called clorogene in wellington, about $60.
The manganese dioxide I got online from a pottery supply place, 2.5kg cost about $30

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Thank you

Hi all not much progress so far, got side tracked knocking out a wall and making new breakfast bar etc.

So one piece of info I can't seem to find out is what to do with the interior of the action?
The barrel is plugged so you dont parkerize the inside of that, but does it matter about the inside of the action or the bolt for that matter.
You are micro etching the surface of the metal, but is it enough to affect tolerances etc?
Or does it actually reduce friction since both surfaces would be microscopically coated in oil trapped in the etched surface.

Everyone feel free to throw in their 2 cents please, especially any gunsmiths or metal finishing techs.

Cheers


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Thanks for that info, I had been thinking of the electrical tape idea, tho as you say it wouldnt work so well on internal surfaces, i had wondered about some type of modeling clay?
Pack it in and then scrape it out afterwards. Could also be used to plug the breach and barrel.
I'll look into hi temp modeling clay

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Since we are lockdown again this project is back under way. Made a 3rd tank today after talking with a gunsmith last week. The new one is just made from mild steel so it'll get parkerized too but not the end of the world. Also debating whether to go super low tech and throw the new tank ontop of the BBQ as a heat source.
I have started stripping the barrel and action of the old finish so need to finish that off and then clean down the little bits. Pics to follow

Did the parkerizing process today, it came out pretty well. The barrel is the best while the bolt clearly shows where I didn't prep it properly!!

[ATTACH]176362[/ATTACH]

Originally Posted by Dan88

Did the parkerizing process today, it came out pretty well. The barrel is the best while the bolt clearly shows where I didn't prep it properly!! Attachment 176361

Where's the pic of the barrel ?

Edit: never mind I was to fast off the mark

It's there now! Uploading from my phone seems painful

And here is the rifle all back together. Parkerizing isn't perfect but it looks better than is did in rusty blue finish.