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Thread: Marlin Ballard restoration

  1. #16
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    Interesting piece, I look forward to watching you progress with this one

  2. #17
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    I tidied up a screw set for the original and remarkably good condition monogrammed Marlin F A C hard rubber shotgun butt plate

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  3. #18
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    Then after finishing the woodwork deep clean and stock oil
    Re assembled it all
    Magnificent does not describe the butt stock walnut
    And my phone camera doesn't do it full justice
    It's such a dark chocolate brown it can only be appreciated in the flesh

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    Fore end wood is only the tiniest piece to cradle the huge 28" octagonal barrel that tapers from
    1 1/64th - 26mm to 29/32nd - 23mm at the muzzle

    Complete it weighs 9 pounds 10 ounces
    4.4kg

  4. #19
    Member john worthington's Avatar
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    that butt would make some nice knife handles

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by john worthington View Post
    that butt would make some nice knife handles
    I will be sure to get in touch with you if I blow up the rifle and the stock is available
    That's if I'm still alive

  6. #21
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    Took the complete rifle to my friendly local gun genius to stip down and brain storm the one major mechanical repair needed

    This pivot pin hole is egged out at the bottom due to the main spring pressure upwards
    These breech blocks are pretty tricky to disassemble for cleaning so my guess mostly guys just stuck more oil in and never cleaned inside
    So once case hardening wore through at bottom it would have gone quickly
    It's 0.5mm out of round at the bottom

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    Back edge has cracked as it got deeper and through the hardening
    But only a small part has spread out

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    The pivot pin is still in tollerence because the machining marks are still visible so that gives me a size to work with
    But the 0.5mm gap looks and feels obvious and it throws the half clock and trigger sear out of timing

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    But at least it is a complete rifle with all its original parts so know what it should be like

    But how to get it there ?
    Very tricky piece of welding to build it up and not take the temper off the working surface of the sear

  7. #22
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    And a worn and bent main under lever pivot screw
    Will make a new one to the slightly worn frame, lever and extractor sizes out of 4340 high carbon steel and harden and temper it
    Should last another 140 years

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    Micky Duck likes this.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaroa1 View Post
    Took the complete rifle to my friendly local gun genius to stip down and brain storm the one major mechanical repair needed

    This pivot pin hole is egged out at the bottom due to the main spring pressure upwards
    These breech blocks are pretty tricky to disassemble for cleaning so my guess mostly guys just stuck more oil in and never cleaned inside
    So once case hardening wore through at bottom it would have gone quickly
    It's 0.5mm out of round at the bottom

    Attachment 208197

    Back edge has cracked as it got deeper and through the hardening
    But only a small part has spread out

    Attachment 208201

    The pivot pin is still in tollerence because the machining marks are still visible so that gives me a size to work with
    But the 0.5mm gap looks and feels obvious and it throws the half clock and trigger sear out of timing

    Attachment 208202

    But at least it is a complete rifle with all its original parts so know what it should be like

    But how to get it there ?
    Very tricky piece of welding to build it up and not take the temper off the working surface of the sear
    Would it work to make a step-down pin for the hammer so that it would be a smaller diameter than the original, this would allow the existing hole to be bushed with a steel bush bronzed in place, or better a phosphor bronze bush silver soldered in if this was strong enough ?

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moa Hunter View Post
    Would it work to make a step-down pin for the hammer so that it would be a smaller diameter than the original, this would allow the existing hole to be bushed with a steel bush bronzed in place, or better a phosphor bronze bush silver soldered in if this was strong enough ?
    No
    The pivot pin thread wouldn't pass through into the other side where is screws in

  10. #25
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    how about slotting the hammer so a full diameter (but less than full width) bush can be inserted??
    Moa Hunter likes this.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tentman View Post
    how about slotting the hammer so a full diameter (but less than full width) bush can be inserted??
    The Bush option is in play but it would project out of the face where the split is

    There's plenty to consider and my welder next to consult

  12. #27
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    I want to make a proper fix and be able to shoot this occasionally as a party piece

    It's been in collections a long time and I'm the first owner who has plans to shoot it
    So no surprises with it's faults
    Micky Duck and techno retard like this.

  13. #28
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    Make a new hammer…
    Micky Duck likes this.

  14. #29
    Member Micky Duck's Avatar
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    YIP YOU BEAT ME TO IT Kiwi bloke.....put origonal aside...so it retains its origonal value buggered or not...get your filies out and machine up a new part from solid block of whatever is most appropriate..... that way it will be usable and safe...and you still retain the origonal piece un doctorfied up so if someone wnts it in origonal condition for collection purpose and not shootable purpose...they can. same as the pin...
    75/15/10 black powder matters

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiwi.bloke View Post
    Make a new hammer…
    No
    I want to keep it as original as possible

    I've fixed worse it just takes time and care and a bit of brain storming
    Kiwi.bloke likes this.

 

 

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