Thread: Need help with SMLE

Cant seem to edit but @dogmatix that wasn’t a dig at you, i think you can easily spot something that would stand out

No problems, I was meaning the OP restoring a sporterised DP rifle.
Totally different situation to having an otherwise pristine original DP marked rifle.

I've been reading up (a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing, lol) and I can't decide which path to take with the rear of the fore end.

Do I have to use the stock bolt keeper? some are saying to just use the brass rod. others are saying ditch both and use the #4 style bracket.

I've got a new VMA fore end stock and there is very little wood at the back end now. would i be weakening it further by removing wood to install the stock keeper?

my first time doing this so I am all ears for advice.

yes i think i'm going to have to build it up pin it and then bed it. A closer look shows there is already a crack and there seems to be a lot of rough haphazard scraping. I think Phil send me a used one that someone botched up.

Thanks to all the users useful comments and Kimber 7mm-08 for supplying advice and parts. I changed direction and bought a 1939 Lithgow SMLE No1 MkIII sight unseen off the yellow sight for parts and decided this would now be the restoration project. The VMA stock although very doable is a challenge to a SMLE novice doing a stock fitting (done other stocks from scratch but the SMLE is a whole different challenge). I've been following the Peter Laidler article on SMLE stock fitting and after about 45 hours i'm about 40% done. now i know why the original stocks sell for gold prices. I'm amazed at the time and skill the wartime stockmakers would put into these rifles. I now understand why the soviets went with the PPSH-41 subguns for mass production. I'm using as much of the original wood and parts as possible and not taking any shortcuts (like not cutting off the end of the mkIII stock bolt and using the factory clips). its marked for the long butt and it has its original with butt plate (even had the oiler bottle inside along with the leather washer). I hope to have it done in about a month.

I'm now at the finishing stages to one part of the stock build. problem is the stock was finished in linseed and turps so it doesn't want to take birchwood casey walnut stain which is the strongest concentrate i know of. any advice?

i'm trying that now. its like the Enfield is saying there is no quick fix. its like you are in a long term relationship.