Thread: Norinco .22 resoration

re the colour, there is no real 'figure' to the wood, and with the plain light wood i would look at a dark walnut stain to give it a rich traditional look.
but thats just me.
greg

OK, so varnish all gone. Very very lightly sanded.... Identified all the bumps and nicks and ready to have the iron treatment.

Wife to be has arrived home so that will have to wait for tomorrow night.

Here are the pics of the very lightly sanded first step. Not all of the darker spots are actually dents, 90% of them are but I assume some of the dark spots left are just deep oil/varnish that have not been removed from the first light sand ...

Morning all,

So progress is coming along quite well with the stock.

I have a question though, Lastnight I attacked it with the iron and managed to get 95% of the dents etc out. Gave it another light sand back in preperation for round 2 with the iron.

Question I have is this... after the second light sanding most of the darker spots you can see in the last picture i posted have come off, but i have these horisontal lines that run through various parts of the stock. They are dark in colour (unlike the rest of the now light timber colour on the stock)

Is that stain still in it? they dont appear to be uniform with the rest of the grain..

I dont have a picture right now but the last round of pictures I loaded up show in picture 1 these 'dark lines' I am asking about.. is this just a case of sanding back further to get them out, hit it with more paint stripper? try and steam them out?

Ill try and get a picture up shortly

Cheers

Marty

is it the lines in the wood i circled?

heheheheheehehee
thats the growth rings in the wood, you will sand thru the stock to get those out.
greg

the norinco sticks are fairly thick aye, so if u have some dings, you should be able to use a more aggressive sand paper without losing too much wood,

Originally Posted by ANTSMAN

the norinco sticks are fairly thick aye, so if u have some dings, you should be able to use a more aggressive sand paper without losing too much wood,

Exactly how I got the smaller ones out. The iron and wet cloth did a magic job on most of it but the rest I just nailed with some heavy paper till they were gone

lol, good news is I have 99.9% of the dings out. She is all sanded up and looking nice.

There are two or three little bits that just seem to be shit timber... There is no sanding through them.

Hopefully tomorrow the finishing kit arrives and i can start chucking some stain at it.

The small bits of metal work that I wanted to tidy are all in primer ready to go. Barrel should be back tomorrow too so it should start to take shape by the weekend.

When I am re-assembling I was thinking that i would lock tight some of the screws etc.. they were all quite loose when I took it apart..

Dont overtighten or locktight your action screws

Originally Posted by veitnamcam

Dont overtighten or locktight your action screws

Ah ok, how tight are we talking? When I strip down the tikka I usually give them quite a good bit of force.

When i dis-assembeled the norinco it was like 1/8 of a turn and they were loose enough to use my fingers to undo the rest of the way...

Just snug em, with shit bedding like the above picks it can help to play with tension on the action screws while shooting some groups to see where it shoots best Over tightening will just crush the wood and tweak the action while rounding out your screw heads

yep if i tighten my norinco action down to much and i mean doesnt take much, the bolt stops operating

when staining, remember that the end grain of the wood will soak the stain in more readily than the cross grain, so be careful to apply the stain sparingly in the front of the grip, top of the forend, in the bolt handle slot and inside the inletting, it will darken unevenly.
greg

Originally Posted by greghud

when staining, remember that the end grain of the wood will soak the stain in more readily than the cross grain, so be careful to apply the stain sparingly in the front of the grip, top of the forend, in the bolt handle slot and inside the inletting, it will darken unevenly.
greg

mmmmmm, it would appear that my 'being careful' was not careful enough...

Stain went on, kept the amount of stain on those areas to a minimum. 2 coats to the 4 on the rest of the stock. they still appear quite dark compared to the rest ...

this picture doesnt show it but this was just after the last coat was applied ...

dont worry just make the rest of the wood as dark. i think it needs a bunch more stain. darker, DARKER!
option 2 is if you are useing the walnut stain that comes with the stock finishing kit from birchwood casey, it is water based. so you could use warm soapy water and scrub the stock to remove the stain and start again.
option 3, stick it in the dish washer.
option 4, gloss black spray pack. NNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOO.
heheheehehehee
just stick more stain on. it will be fine.
greg

I gave it two more coats in the end .... Started with the stock oil lastnight, got two coats on and its starting to look quite good.

The guy from the local gun shop said just rub it in with my fingers, keep rubbing till it gets/feels hot.

The parts that were darker -- around the grip and forend are still quite abit darker but I think I like the look, rather than being the one colour it seems to give it some depth...

Anyway, the barrel is back, the steel work (trigger guard, floor plate and can) are all painted up nice in a matte finish black. I have polished up the bolt and removed all the blueing. I have pretty much everything to put it back together.

Another 7 coats of oil and I hope to have it all back together for a bunny shoot on sunday (have a feeling the oil may not have had sufficent time to dry but I still hope, its sitting in a wee room with a heater and fan going so every 3 hours or so its getting a new treatment of oil)