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Thread: Norinco .22 resoration

  1. #31
    Member tikka 7/08's Avatar
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  2. #32
    Member tikka 7/08's Avatar
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    Please excuse my retard questions, I cant say I have ever done much work with wood... but as you can see with this pic the dark sort of flecks running horizontal through the wood. This is a picture of it wet so i could see what the grain is going to look like once complete.... I thought i would have a milky/cream colour plain looking bit of timber not something with these little bits of brown all through it

    (as you can see im not even close to being finished sanding but thought i should check before i go crazy sanding to try and get what i think is more stain deeper in the timber out)

  3. #33
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    is it the lines in the wood i circled?

    heheheheheehehee
    thats the growth rings in the wood, you will sand thru the stock to get those out.
    greg

  4. #34
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    re the colour, there is no real 'figure' to the wood, and with the plain light wood i would look at a dark walnut stain to give it a rich traditional look.
    but thats just me.
    greg

  5. #35
    Member ANTSMAN's Avatar
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    the norinco sticks are fairly thick aye, so if u have some dings, you should be able to use a more aggressive sand paper without losing too much wood,

  6. #36
    Member tikka 7/08's Avatar
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    lol, good news is I have 99.9% of the dings out. She is all sanded up and looking nice.

    There are two or three little bits that just seem to be shit timber... There is no sanding through them.

    Hopefully tomorrow the finishing kit arrives and i can start chucking some stain at it.

    The small bits of metal work that I wanted to tidy are all in primer ready to go. Barrel should be back tomorrow too so it should start to take shape by the weekend.

    When I am re-assembling I was thinking that i would lock tight some of the screws etc.. they were all quite loose when I took it apart..

  7. #37
    Member tikka 7/08's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greghud View Post
    re the colour, there is no real 'figure' to the wood, and with the plain light wood i would look at a dark walnut stain to give it a rich traditional look.
    but thats just me.
    greg
    Yep walnut is the stain I selected when I ordered the kit. Will soon see how this comes out

  8. #38
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    Dont overtighten or locktight your action screws
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  9. #39
    Member tikka 7/08's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ANTSMAN View Post
    the norinco sticks are fairly thick aye, so if u have some dings, you should be able to use a more aggressive sand paper without losing too much wood,
    Exactly how I got the smaller ones out. The iron and wet cloth did a magic job on most of it but the rest I just nailed with some heavy paper till they were gone

  10. #40
    Member tikka 7/08's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by veitnamcam View Post
    Dont overtighten or locktight your action screws
    Ah ok, how tight are we talking? When I strip down the tikka I usually give them quite a good bit of force.

    When i dis-assembeled the norinco it was like 1/8 of a turn and they were loose enough to use my fingers to undo the rest of the way...

  11. #41
    Almost literate. veitnamcam's Avatar
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    Just snug em, with shit bedding like the above picks it can help to play with tension on the action screws while shooting some groups to see where it shoots best Over tightening will just crush the wood and tweak the action while rounding out your screw heads
    "Hunting and fishing" fucking over licenced firearms owners since ages ago.

    308Win One chambering to rule them all.

  12. #42
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    yep if i tighten my norinco action down to much and i mean doesnt take much, the bolt stops operating

  13. #43
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    when staining, remember that the end grain of the wood will soak the stain in more readily than the cross grain, so be careful to apply the stain sparingly in the front of the grip, top of the forend, in the bolt handle slot and inside the inletting, it will darken unevenly.
    greg

  14. #44
    Member tikka 7/08's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by greghud View Post
    when staining, remember that the end grain of the wood will soak the stain in more readily than the cross grain, so be careful to apply the stain sparingly in the front of the grip, top of the forend, in the bolt handle slot and inside the inletting, it will darken unevenly.
    greg

    mmmmmm, it would appear that my 'being careful' was not careful enough...

    Stain went on, kept the amount of stain on those areas to a minimum. 2 coats to the 4 on the rest of the stock. they still appear quite dark compared to the rest ...

    this picture doesnt show it but this was just after the last coat was applied ...

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  15. #45
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    dont worry just make the rest of the wood as dark. i think it needs a bunch more stain. darker, DARKER!
    option 2 is if you are useing the walnut stain that comes with the stock finishing kit from birchwood casey, it is water based. so you could use warm soapy water and scrub the stock to remove the stain and start again.
    option 3, stick it in the dish washer.
    option 4, gloss black spray pack. NNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOO.
    heheheehehehee
    just stick more stain on. it will be fine.
    greg

 

 

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