Thread: sealing plywood

Cabot's CFP Floor. Applied 2 coats 17yrs ago on my new beach "TNG" floors and still as new.
Applied 1 coat on my Mahogany bench tops and now need another coat.
I used this in a single pot application but at the time purchased a 4L plus a 1/4 L hardener but never use the hardener.
I would use this again but add the hardener just because you can and it would last longer and is harder "cheap as chips"!
With the hardener it is recommended for Gym floors!
Check it out!

Originally Posted by Marty Henry

Either water based or oil based aliphatic urethanes are non yellowing but exposed to sunlight even briefly pine will yellow, and other timbers like cedar will bleach. On a floor oil is a bad idea, it gives no protection to the timber and depending on what its thinned with can cause delamination or if in a damp area possibly mould.

I have not found this with my own boiled linseed oiled floors. They are hard and dirt resistant. I have Oregon planks as flooring not pine ply which as we all know will be softer. I guess the question is what is going to give a hard non marking surface for a floor in a hut where the OP is not likely to be wearing his slippers