Thread: Self isolation gun projects

Originally Posted by The bomb

About to get out a rasp and reshape my 10/22 stock..wish me luck,have no idea what I’m doing but a replacement is only $50 if I stuff it up.

@The bomb Please take before and after images and post your progress

Taking 110 years of rust off the action and barrel.

Before


And after half a days work carefully working it off with rust remover and 0000 steel wool

What did you kill the rust with?

A smaller scale lockdown project for me - turning an old savage 99 stock into a lamp stand. Also got hold of a very nice (and very expensive) slab of walnut to make the base, and modified an old cartridge case for the switch, even has the original SA Corp 250-3000 headstamp (and a new primer). The other photo is the original prototype I made last winter from another stock. the shade is modified with fern leaves from the garden. Will do the same with the new one too so we have a set.

Originally Posted by Finnwolf

What did you kill the rust with?

@Finnwolf Burchwood Casey Blue and Rust remover.

Just swab it on and wait 5 minutes then lightly rub with 0000 Steel wool
Then I wash down with white spirits
And alternate rust remover and steel wool treatment with clean down with white spirits.
And again as many times as it takes.
Just slowly exposing more rust underneath each time.

The key thing it to take it slow and easy so you don't loose the corners and lines

Do not go near a firearm with a buff !!

Originally Posted by bang

A smaller scale lockdown project for me - turning an old savage 99 stock into a lamp stand. Also got hold of a very nice (and very expensive) slab of walnut to make the base, and modified an old cartridge case for the switch, even has the original SA Corp 250-3000 headstamp (and a new primer). The other photo is the original prototype I made last winter from another stock. the shade is modified with fern leaves from the garden. Will do the same with the new one too so we have a set.

That's a very "light" stock!

Originally Posted by akaroa1

@The bomb Please take before and after images and post your progress

Will do,not expecting miracles though,I only have very basic set of wood files and very little patience..

Stage 1,what’s gonna be the best way to darken the wood?

Originally Posted by The bomb

Attachment 137218
Stage 1,what’s gonna be the best way to darken the wood?

@The bomb schaftoil comes in 2 or 3 different shades
You can do the first few coats with one of the dark ones and when is what you like then keep coating with the golden one to finish it all off

I will post an image soon

Scherells schaftol

Reddish brown. Never used it
Dark. Good for a first few coats
Premium gold. All the finishing coats and I'm going stock maintenance

But you need to rub the whole stock down to bare wood and at least P300

It's usually on trademe from a guy in Blenheim

Thanks will look into it,bloody lockdown gonna slow down the process though..

I have some tru oil here and some stock wax but they won’t darken the wood at all will they?might try a bit under the recoil pad and see.

Originally Posted by The bomb

I have some tru oil here and some stock wax but they won’t darken the wood at all will they?might try a bit under the recoil pad and see.

You really need the dark one to get the color you are after.
If you p.m. me I could get you his email if you don't want to wait out the trademe times
Not sure if it would help though.

On the topic of derusting delicate/historically valuable stuff, have found Evaporust to be excellent for derusting delicate or complicated items: https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/e...re/354057.html
It really comes into its own on stuff that's delicate or you don't want to risk with acids or abrasion from sandpaper, wire brushes etc. Usually I degrease parts with a solvent, clean away dirt and coarse rust with a plastic brush and scraper, then toss everything in a bucket of the stuff for a day giving it a stir a few times. Usually that's enough, though I've left an old percussion barrel with seized plug in it for months and the plug came free at the end. Parts come out grey with a soap film to stop flash rusting when drying. The soap is water soluble so can be washed off when it comes time for surface prep. The solution weakens with time and use, but it's not a big deal in the grande scheme of things.

Also helps that it doesn't give you headaches, can't eat your skin/eyes/tools, light on fire, or destroy your parts if you leave them in there