Thread: Switch barrel : any experience ?

Thanks Dean.

Entire project budget is less than $500.

Got second barrel for $100 from a mate
Around $250 for re-thread, chamber and crown
Maybe $50 for materials to make up barrel vice and action wrench.

Believe me, it took me long enough to find a lefty action/rifle, i keep a close watch on TM, most are well over $750.

I hear what you say about re-zero, not a major issue for me, 10 minutes to local range, and I have flexible work setup, so not a hassle to pop down.

Would you recommend pinned or alignment block for the lug ?

Originally Posted by ebf

Thanks Dean.

Entire project budget is less than $500.

Got second barrel for $100 from a mate
Around $250 for re-thread, chamber and crown
Maybe $50 for materials to make up barrel vice and action wrench.

Believe me, it took me long enough to find a lefty action/rifle, i keep a close watch on TM, most are well over $750.

I hear what you say about re-zero, not a major issue for me, 10 minutes to local range, and I have flexible work setup, so not a hassle to pop down.

Would you recommend pinned or alignment block for the lug ?

Rem 788 LH action and only $500 to spend - wow, that's a big ask!

Unfortunately it's not a lefty's world, and with less options it means you just have to pay what ever is required if you want quality. Rem788 is pretty much the bottom tier of action you could get. Even a LH Savage would probably be better - as it least you can still get parts for those.

For a switch barrel rifle it would be most ideal to first select an action with an integral recoil lug (i.e. Howa, Sako, Win70, etc.) and avoid any of the 'sandwich/washer recoil lug set-ups, as this only creates a major potential issue. Even with a 'pin' installed the lug it can still squew off alignment a bit, which could then affect the bedding, shoulder seat, etc.

Professionally, this sort of job i would give a very wide berth. But for a home project, if you could first find a way to make the recoil lug integral to the action (so that it will never move) then you will have overcome one hurdle. Still i shudder at the thought of a Rem788 action though, especially for a project such as this. But if you're on a budget........

D.

Originally Posted by Blaser

Nice looking rifle. What do you do to run calibers with different head sizes?

I use 308 in both barrels; however the same bolt will accept about a dozen different cartridges of similar base diameter. S&L offer various magazine stops to accommodate varying cartridge lengths and also an alternative bolt to accommodate a range of magnum calibres. One might question the advantage OF HAVING A SWITCH BARREL INSTEAD OF TWO SEPERATE RIFLES, BUT AT THE END OF THE DAY THE EXTRA BARREL AND PERHAPS MAG AND BOLT costs less than a whole extra rifle and scope. The Schultz and Larsen are not a lightweight rifle, mine weighs over 8 lbs, but very well made and finished. The barrels are machined such that the 3 lug bolt head locks inside the barrel when the rifle is loaded so headspace is consistent. Mine will shoot 1/2 moa groups with handloads from either barrel so it is at least as accurate as my Sako 85 but in my opinion the S&L is a better finished rifle. S&L have a web site and I seem to recall a page on there which describes the barrel, calibre, magazine and bolt options. For instance, if I were to purchase a magnum bolt and magazine AND A 7MM MAGNUM BARREL, I COULD FIT THESE TO MY EXISTING RECIEVER AND STOCK IN ABOUT 5 MINUTES. (sOrry about the capitals, I keep hitting the caps lock by mistake) There are also several higher grades of rifles and stocks, as with other brands, available. I can only speak from my own experience, but I am very happy with mine.

The Switch Barrel

Basically , what Dean said , EXCEPT , I would not reccommend blaser , the concept is flawed , and is of use ONLY when restricted to a 1-2 rifles , due to local laws .
I like the idea , but in practice its not is good as it is in theory .
If you still wanted to , I would say , Sauer , the old blaser84 , Mauser 66 , or something like the Dakota , or IF for heavier varmints , then any of the new AIs or Sako TRG M10 , or DT SRS .

Originally Posted by ChrisF

Basically , what Dean said , EXCEPT , I would not reccommend blaser , the concept is flawed , and is of use ONLY when restricted to a 1-2 rifles , due to local laws .
I like the idea , but in practice its not is good as it is in theory .
If you still wanted to , I would say , Sauer , the old blaser84 , Mauser 66 , or something like the Dakota , or IF for heavier varmints , then any of the new AIs or Sako TRG M10 , or DT SRS .

Why do you say that about the Blasers?

Oh crap, there goes the thread, another pro and anti blaser fest

Because I donot like them .

After talking to a couple of smiths with alot of experience , UK & Germany , they said they have good barrels & usually shoot accurately , but most other parts are cheap .
the German smith said , a large police unit guarding airports in Germany , brought a number of their tac rifles , and returned them 3 times as they would not constantly hold a zero over time , in the end went with something else , this was using the blaser saddle mounts.
If you ever see photos of what the european & german police use , its actually rare to see the Blaser tac rifles in use , what you do see is lots of HK PSG-1 , PSG-1As , DSR-1s , PGMs , Sako TRGs , BT APRs , Sauer SSG3000 , Steyr SSGs , Steyr SSG04s , Steyr CISMs , and a assortment of AIs .

They have had a number of cases of the bolt unlocking during firing , usually due to gases from a blown primer running down the firing pin hole and melting a thrust washer camming the finger splines closed , and when that happens its very messy , do a search and you will find photos of guys that have had the bolt driven into their face .
It has not happened much , I think about 4-5 times , BUT it has happened , and ME I am NOT very luckly , actually I have no luck at all .
The idea of a switch barrel rig saving you money , again in theory , and not really in practice .
The point is how they fail , other actions have blow ups , BUT in virtually every case the bolt and action have held, and not seperated , when a blaser fails it lets the bolt go .
I look at blaser being the Fosters ( beer ) of rifles , bloody good marketing hype & advertising , but a crap product , JUST like Aussie Fosters beer .
Even our own Swazi man had some drama's with blasers , Opps . barrel blew , he was lucky , its normally the bolt .
So I chose other rifles , actually , almost any other rifles .


Later Chris

All for $500 bucks!😜

whoops

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4Aq...bUakUotekAyxew

Originally Posted by ebf

Oh crap, there goes the thread, another pro and anti blaser fest

Not at all, was just interested in a different point of view, thanks @ChrisF

Sweet,a usable sako barrel I'll pay for postage gimp

Think Leupold would honour the warranty on the scope?

A switch barrel rifle a mate has just brought is a very easy set up, the receiver end of the barrel has been milled so that a truck sparkplug wrench will go over it, a piece of aluminium put into a vice that sits in the ejection port of the action holds it still, just a matter of unscrewing one barrel and screwing a new one in to the right torque. takes about 5 mins.