Thread: Various Knives

@Von Gruff Knives Most if not all knife makers make a sheath with similar cover of the knife handle as yours. I have had sheaths that length and have lost the knife from them. Now I use sheaths that leave only an inch of the handle protruding and the knife never gets lost.

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

@Von Gruff Knives Most if not all knife makers make a sheath with similar cover of the knife handle as yours. I have had sheaths that length and have lost the knife from them. Now I use sheaths that leave only an inch of the handle protruding and the knife never gets lost.

Developing a new sheath style with retention strap for a customer in Belgium to test. While the hot wax process I do creates a better retention than plain leather there is a concern for those who belly crawl up or down hills and through scrub etc move physically through bush, and or, do other things that most of us more sedentary hunters do not.

Originally Posted by Von Gruff Knives

Developing a new sheath style with retention strap for a customer in Belgium to test. While the hot wax process I do creates a better retention than plain leather there is a concern for those who belly crawl up or down hills and through scrub etc move physically through bush, and or, do other things that most of us more sedentary hunters do not.

What is the reason for not just making them longer in the handle section and also longer below the blade with the bottom open so they dont fill with leaves and crap ?

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

What is the reason for not just making them longer in the handle section and also longer below the blade with the bottom open so they dont fill with leaves and crap ?

I suppose that having over 750 knives away in 9 countries with no complaints I dont see the need to change anything except on a custom basis for particular needs.

A few sheep shear knives all done. I take the grinds up as high as possible without interfering with the original markings

Macrocarpa and acacia


Eucalyptus and oak.

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

What is the reason for not just making them longer in the handle section and also longer below the blade with the bottom open so they dont fill with leaves and crap ?

sounds like you should use a bacho...........not that there is anything wrong with bacho.....but you have just described the sheath pretty much spot on......

Originally Posted by Micky Duck

sounds like you should use a bacho...........not that there is anything wrong with bacho.....but you have just described the sheath pretty much spot on......

No, the ones I make are longer than a Bahco. I drill a cord hole through the end of the handle and the knife handle slips right down into the sheath leaving only 25mm handle protruding plus the cord. The bottom of the sheath comes well below the point of the knife and is open. I have found that the leather sheaths with stitching following the curve of the blade end up with the stitch cut and the knife potentially sticking into your leg when you crouch down. Then you end up stuffing the bottom of the sheath with greasy wool to stop the knife point sticking out

Today there is the new pattern 5 inch filleting knife with blue/black acrylic over blue liners on the NitroV blade with honing steel. A set of scollops added for wet hand use.


A Light Hunter with orange liners and bolster spacer under the OD canvas micarta handles on the 1084 blade. Customer asked for jimping so I bought a 15 LPI checkering file and that seemed to work well. A bit of shop clart to clean out of them to be cleaned out, but pleased with how they turned out.

No words needed

Now mate that is a thing of beauty

I have lovely scar across shin from knife cutting way out of sheath and my pack some 25-30 years ago...ever since then I have put flattened piece of conduit pipe inside leather sheath so knife CANNOT cut its way out.....I should really secure conduit inside as occasionally it comes out on blade,but its a small inconvenience to have the security of knowing its safer.

If you’re worried about the sheath just make your own from Kydex.

If you make the sheath abnd hot wax (as I do) it to conform to the shape of the knife it sets almost like kydex so the risk of having the blade tip cut through the bottom of the sheath is mitigated as it would take a deliberate and very forcefull act to make it do so.

I’m the lucky recipient of the Light Hunter with gimping as above. Knife arrived yesterday and to say I was stoked is an understatement. The photos really don’t do the knife justice, really got to see them in the flesh to fully appreciate the quality of the design and craftsmanship that goes into them. The feel, weight and balance in the hand is superb, as is the leatherwork in the sheath. Many thanks Garry for quick turn around and the gimping. I’ve added a couple more pics that I hope here that I hope better show the knife.

A friend on another forum asked --- do you make Viking knives and axes?
Loving a chalenge and making something new I found a design I really liked with a 10 1/4 inch blade and bought in a 30 layer bar of carbon damascus but decided to make one first from 1075 to prove the design before using the expensive damascus.
I ground it closer to finish than normal to hopefully show the hamon although grinding that thin can warp badly in the heat treat, but it is straight and ready for finish grind on blade and tang. A number of new things with this one so love the continuing chalenges this brings to the table.


After finish grinding, hand sanding and etching. I will try to make the hamon a bit more interesting next time with a bit more of a wave to it but happy with the way it turned out.