Thread: English & Spanish side by sides

what mix are you going to use to do that?if it has the pattern it does mean different hard and soft steels blended in a damascus???i have a new book coming with a load of chemical blacking / browning formulas

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Originally Posted by el borracho

what mix are you going to use to do that?if it has the pattern it does mean different hard and soft steels blended in a damascus???i have a new book coming with a load of chemical blacking / browning formulas

No idea on the steels but it is definelty not a damascus barrel. With regard to the book on bluing, if it is an American book you will find some older formulae that you can no longer use due to the chemicals in the mix For example, some of the very good mixs use what is known as corrosive sublimate i.e. mercuric choride, not good for the body and lungs, tends to fuck them up a tad. Other mixs use highly corrosive chemicals so the punter does need to be aware of this and be carefull.

There are also some chemicals that will rust the hell out of any steel tools in the workshop so you dont mix them up in a place where all your favourite tools are stored. Even one of the more simple rust blue recipes creates fumes that can ruin your day in a big way.

Oh an extra bit, the process of browning is the same as bluing, its just that you dont boil the steel off. I could go into the equipment required to do a proper job but my fingers are tired

yes the boiling will blacken the barrel if boiled . i am trying to get some better blacking liquid in , well see how that goes.the book i have is an oldy with all the witches brews im sure , its called Title: Firearm Blueing and Browning (Revised and updated

Author: R.H. Angier, Ned Schwing

From what I have seen there is only one bluing agent that can be imported to NZ. Most manufactors wont bother as it costs too much to get the proper export licence.
The one that can be imported is not that great. Angier is a old book and thence the old formulae will apply and therefore the warning as noted above does apply.

hopefully the revised and updated version has some modern recipes .. from the sixty's lol

my firearm blueing and browning by R H Angier ..foreword by Nick Schwing book arrived today --who would ever have thought id be excited reading a book on chemical mixes ??i have all the chemicals to make a rust blueing formula and cant wait to bottle that brew !!

started making my blackening brew today --freak the shit outta me !! I dont like dangerous chemicals especially ones the below out yellow brown smoke when adding the additives being regent grade Iron into 2 mix acid solution.Tomorrow Ill try more until the acid doesnt want to accept more Iron -it may take a week but im in no hurry .After that 5 litres of distilled water and then I pout it into coffee filters to take the good brew out leaving the shite .Hopefully next week Ill have that which one cannot buy in the shops !!! oh and real black barrels soon

It does pay to be careful when mixing that brew together.

I am going real slow -infact I am going to take 10th of the current brew of 600 cc hydrochloric and 400cc of the nitric to make the final brew as in retrospect I have made to much .I am at the stage of adding the Regent iron power to the mix and it smokes like a chimney which I keep well away from -I will then add the distilled water slowly in the smaller quantity of brew once the iron has caused the acid to stop eating it .I dont like playing with this stuff at all ! scares the hell outta me not being a person that has dabbled in this before

Shit you have made enough af the brew for several hundred shotguns I did a 1/3 rd of that mix and have blued 24 rifles, shotguns and still have shitloads left.
You can also just use degreased steel wool or horse shoe nails rather than that flash harry iron powder. The brew you have made is one of the most basic of recipies but it does the job

can you suggest any other additive to this brew to flash it up ----so to speak lol

i thought i might add a comment from another chap who commented on another forum about mixing chemicals that i have mentioned here -very important !

Adding iron to a nitric/hydrochloric mixture has to be done very carefully. The fumes you are seeing are probably nitrogen oxides (nitrogen dioxide is usual).

Professionally this would be done with active extraction to avoid exposure to the fumes, which are toxic and can kill or cause long term illnesses.

The minimum you should be wearing is acid resistant gloves and overalls, safety goggles and, if you do not have an active extraction unit, a face mask fitted with an acid vapour cartridge. Anything less and you are risking your life, even if you are doing it in the yard. Not just that, you may inadvertently expose passers-by, so please be very careful.
Brian Terry
Aerospace - Yeovil, Somerset, UK

I'd paint blue EB now worth the risk

Where,s the fun in that? I wont tell you what I was dressed up in when I did my first ever brew but my wife damn near wet her pants laughing when she saw the outfit