Thread: English & Spanish side by sides

very interesting types of colouring -- I be a lovin that blackning !!

Bone Charcoal Case Color: Our case coloring is prepared and processed to correspond with the different coloring patterns and designs set forth by the manufacturers. Special attention to detail here is of the utmost importance. As an example; a Colt, Winchester, and Marlin should not all look the same as there are differences between them. Antique firearms and new guns can receive this metal finish.
Cyanide Case ColoringCyanide case coloring. Provided in tiger stripe pattern and swirled. For all antique and custom firearms.
Cyanide Case Coloring: This finish is commonly found on single shot actions in the tiger stripe pattern, which we do provide. Parts can also be processed to give the mottled and swirled effect of the bone charcoal method. Some common examples of this finish are the Stevens Single Shot actions with the tiger stripe pattern like the Favorite, 44 & the 44½. We also find many of the A. H. Fox double guns with this process in the common swirl and mottled pattern.
Carbonia BlueCarbonia bluing for Colt, Winchester, and all fireams.
Carbonia Blue/Charcoal Blue: This finish is produced in a gas furnace which is exactly how it was done by the manufacturers like Colt, Winchester, Smith & Wesson, and almost all other arms makers before WW II. Carbonia blue is the Cadillac of finishes. It's glossy black in appearance which has a mirror depth to it (when the metal is polished to a high luster), and hard wearing. There are some different methods other shops may try to use and duplicate this finish, but for it to be a true Carbonia finish, it must be processed in a gas furnace retort.
Nitre / Fire BlueColt Single Action Army Niter Blue screws.
Nitre Blueing: Or sometimes called fire bluing, produces that brilliant iridescent peacock blue. Commonly seen on Colt Single Action Army screws. This finish is a great way to decorate the appointments of a gun, but it's not the most durable and not well suited for larger parts of guns receiving a lot of handling.
Slow Rust BlueRust Blue as found on Winchester Marlin and other antique and custom rifles and shotguns.
Slow Rust Blue & Browning: Our Slow Rust Bluing process is highly controlled in both the rusting environment, and processing time. Over years of research and development, R.G.S. makes every one of our own rusting agents, and when combined with expertly controlled rusting cycles it allows us to develop a finish highly superior to competitors. Rather than a soft etched finish commonly seen from other shops, our finish displays a very distinct keen black shimmer.
Best English BlackingBest English Blacking for fine quality antique, modern, and custom firearms.
Best English Blacking: Holland's, Purdy's, Westley Richards, they all use this finish on their Dbl. Gun tubes. The hallmark of Best English Blacking is a very glossy rich black color, which is still a Slow Rust Blue finish. This finish takes much more time than a normal rust blue, but the results are absolutely astounding! There's no better finish than this to adorn a custom rifle or shotgun.

[QUOTE=el borracho;265916]love to see it in all it glory for sure ! I purchased a nice looking Japanese boxlock yesterday also that will arrive this week ..since we are few on this thread may aswell pop up a few of our guns also even if they are not English or Spanish but look as tho they are . This is a Kawaguchia Firearms Co. Tokyo. SxS 12G English type for grip nice and fine --I paid $450 for this on trademe yesterday ..a bargain
Kawaguchia fireams co. or KFC.as it is often abbreviated is an old japanese firearms company.i think they are now part of the miruko group.for many years they were contracted to make the winchester 101, to give some idea of the esteem in which they were held.they mainly made for the japanese domestic market,but in recent years we have seen a number of KFC. guns come into the country,most common is the semi auto which is a copy of the browning A5. most of these guns have been brought via Gun City,who in recent years have established commercial contacts with japanese traders. forum members may be interested in a little background detail.in japan gun licences are restricted, read expensive. you are only allowed one shotgun. a few years ago restrictions were tightened to reduce the number of licence holders. now if you are well heeled and can only buy one gun, what are you going to buy? a brand new, expensive one. so the second hand market for guns in japan is pretty depressed.dave tipple is an astute business man.he saw the opportunity and has brought several container loads of guns back to nz.there have been a number of high class guns not normally seen in nz arrive this way, Boss,Purdey, Holland and Holland,Westley Richards, Churchills, etc,there has also been a number of good old shooters, a large number have been side by sides, they are all there, the good the bad and the ugly.there has never been in nz such a selection of used firearms. in terms of sxs. most know the familiar brands, the SKB royale,the Miroku sbs, as being good reliable guns, but there are some wonderful obscure japanese domestic brands. if you wait for the bi annual sale many of these guns are half price, and for those that can distinguish a good well made gun,you can get a wonderful sxs. but you have to be aware of pitfalls,loose ribs cracked repaired stocks and so on.the japanese made some quality shotguns and are great value for money.

I had a browse over at gun city at the jap s/s -typically over priced as gun city does but never the less nice enough field guns and id have one no problem at all owning one . i think miroku has stopped making s/s guns

i gotta say im enjoying this thread and those participating in it with images ,storys and info!!!

Go drool over "international guns"

ill have alook over there Maca .

just a bit more description on bluing than the other post -great what you can find on line and educate yourself with!!

Hot salts bluing.
This is todays bluing system as used by all gun makers.
The metal is boiled in a tank of chemicals which gives it a black-blue color.
This is actually "oxidation" or a controlled form of RUST, which has a blue-black color and is smooth.

Rust blue.
Rust blue is a process in which the metal is caused to rust with a chemical that gives a blue in color instead of the usual rust-red color.
The parts are boiled in water, removed and swabbed with the chemical.
The parts are allowed to rust, then "carded" off with steel wool. At this point the metal has a grayish streaked color.
As the process is continued the color deepens and darkens into a satin blue.
There are a number of processes in which rust blue can be done.
Rust blue has a more satin finish that's blue but not the glossy blue of other methods.
It is a durable, tough blue, and is one of the few methods by which double guns with soft soldered barrels can be blued.
Due to the amount of time and hand labor, rust blue is expensive.

Carbona blue.
Carbona is an advanced form of heat bluing.
This is the process many gun companies used years ago, especially Colt.
The cleaned parts are put in steel drums along with a mix of various materials, including charred leather, charcoal, bone meal, and other often "secret" materials, then the air-tight drums are put in a furnace at carefully controlled temps.
The materials give off a gas that drives out moisture and air, and the metal takes on a deep shiny black-blue color.

Heat bluing.
There are a good number of heat bluing methods, known by various names like "Fire Bluing". These are basically simply variations of heating the metal until it changes color.
The simplest method is to just polish the metal, clean it then heat it up.
As the metal heats, it starts to change colors, first a light yellow "straw" to a darker golden, to a brown, then purple, and finally a brilliant blue.
Most heat blues are very colorful, but very delicate and easily worn off.
All heat blues must take into account the hardness and temper of the metal. Some guns parts should not be heat blued.

Cold blue.
Cold bluing is a commercial chemical that works for touching up worn areas or scratches.
It's not very durable, tends to turn brown as it ages, and usually doesn't work well for large areas.
When used to blue a large area, it tends to give a streaked, cloudy gray-blue color.

Nitre Blue.
This is another heat blue method, only using a salts compound that melts when heated.
When the metal is submerged in the liquid hot salts, it changes color like heat bluing, from a light straw to a brilliant blue.
Again, nitre bluing is rather delicate.
Some people have done nitre bluing using stump remover chemical from the hardware store.

Charcoal bluing.
Simply another name for a variation of Carbona bluing.

There are other methods, all of which are variations of the above methods.
They all use either a heat system to heat the metal until it changes color, or a chemical that causes the metal to rust with a blue or blue-black color.

With all these systems, the color and how shiny the finish is depends entirely on how well the metal is polished BEFORE the bluing process.
As example, the only real difference between the Ruger's satin black color and the deep, dark blue mirror-like finish of the 1950's Python was the degree of polishing the metal received before the metal was put into the hot salts bluing tanks.

I've got a good recipe on my desk at work for either bluing or browning can't remember but old one

the English blacking is what interests me . is this just an extra slow blue--i wonder if this is it?? the deep black finish on my first post colouring post at the bottom looks stunning

Rust blue.
Rust blue is a process in which the metal is caused to rust with a chemical that gives a blue in color instead of the usual rust-red color.
The parts are boiled in water, removed and swabbed with the chemical.
The parts are allowed to rust, then "carded" off with steel wool. At this point the metal has a grayish streaked color.
As the process is continued the color deepens and darkens into a satin blue.
There are a number of processes in which rust blue can be done.
Rust blue has a more satin finish that's blue but not the glossy blue of other methods.
It is a durable, tough blue, and is one of the few methods by which double guns with soft soldered barrels can be blued.
Due to the amount of time and hand labor, rust blue is expensive.

The end result depends on just how much work you do in the preparation and you can get a very nice shine using rust blue if you put the extra effort in.

The quality of the steel used in making a barrel can also reflect in the finish. I have two barrels in the shed, one being an old H & R single barrel and thats come out very well and yet I also have a Winchester Super X1 semi and the finish is more of a matt. With the rust blue you do get to a stage where the steel just doesnt want to take on rust nor colour any more. You just have to judge the right time to end the process

Originally Posted by el borracho

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I have uploaded these on behalf of lophortyx and he can share his story's of these guns . One is a Victor sarasqueta 12 E.... wow !!!very nice

Just a few notes on the photos. that semi auto is a ring in i know, but i thought it might be of interest.i like shooting a few quail and as i live in ch.ch. i spend i bit of time chasing them around nth. canterbury.for the most part this is hard country,both to shoot and retrieve,riverbed,broom and blackberry, not your tussock, briar and matagouri of central otago and marlborough. so for most parts shooting is covey flushes,not often do you pin your covey. two shots is all you get. which is fine if you are a sport with the attitude of 'if i can't git 'em with two they can live for another day', and i'm fine with that. but there have been days when i just can't get 'em, and this led me thinkin', if only i just had another shot. then i read about the benelli ultra lite, lightest 20 ga in the world, 5lbs 6 ozs,3 shot. well i just had to get one didn't i.bought it online from a texas gunshop,and a couple of months later,i was able to collect from customs after shelling out for gst,MAF, bio and whatever else they bone you for.the gunsmith made up a new mag, you can't just add an extension, so it holds 3 shells and not the factory 2.to the amusment of friends of have add a steel rod to the forend knob to give it a little more weight forward, yes i'm trying to improve what benelli spent millions perfecting.i've had this gun for about 4 years and it is one of my favourites. the next photo is my AYA. mentioned in a previous post and with it my lovely brie, now deceased. the hammer gun,i went through a real fad for these, i still love them. there is a few lessons in this one which forum members might enjoy. this gun had done a couple of rounds on trademe.i watched it, because i liked a back action and it looked like a copy of the Holland and Holland Dominion(a gun in actual fact made by w.c scott but sold under H&H label) anyway i put a bid on $180 and this was the sole bid.the gun was local so i went around to collect and it was at a house full of students.one of them(off a farm) had two shotguns for sale.there was mine and had a quick look and realised it was one of those gun that had spent a fair bit of its time in the truck over the years. the other one had a split up the foreend and was cracked through the wrist. my one was loose in the action had mismatched hammers, a lever spring or firing pin was broken,had several dents in both barrels and when i peered down the tubes, the left barrel was pitted and hadn't been fired or cleaned in years.none of this had been mentioned in the description.i began to shake my head and say this gun is irretrievable,and the student said oh please take i need the money.he threw a side of wide pork and sucker that i am i found myself walking out the door to the chorus of ' love to see the gun again when you do it up'. well it sat for about a year before i did something with it.i took it to the gunsmith.he honed out the barrels,redid the chokes made up a new lever spring.i found a hammer.he had to shape it,file to fit the axle and then put a little fence around the top to match the others.this cost $350 and it was cheap at that.it still needs to be blued and the wood and checkering to be done,but i think i have spent enough.its a great gun to shoot clays with and have a bit of fun.i've saved this gun from a certain death but get my money back? the next photo is my AYA, doesn't do it justice.these were/are one of the most popular guns in the UK often referred to as the poor man's H&H of which they are a copy. suprisingly expensive new here, about $8500, and with the makers leather case,$10,000.but not bad to buy 2nd hand from the UK where there are many to choose from. the next gun is my victor sarasqueta 12 E.i guess i always had a soft spot for sarasqueta, victor not to be confused with other sarasqueta makers.this is the top production sxs model all crafted by hand. i have two other V.sarasqueta 7E models hand detachable sidelocks,i love this outstanding piece of Basque workmanship. having said that, the sidelock u/o AYA as shown by maca49 would take some beating. that was an outstanding gun and from that era.

nice write up -shame the system didnt allow the photos to follow through . i tried also but did the same

And I SOLD IT but times in your life change with circumstances!

buggered if i know what it is buy it is sure pretty in an ostentatious way

ive also been on the scout for a few cases for some of my guns --a bit like having dolls and needing to dress them up lol

these all come from uplandfly and are reasonably priced $200us plus shipping Uplandfly Hard Leather ShotGun Case | UplandFly Hard Leather Shotgun Case

that gun, decorated in turkish style? is ornamental or a garish work of art?it does not lend itself to shooting so in that respect has a dishonesty of purpose and it is not to be taken seriously. a good site for gun cases are jeffs outfitters in usa.the canvas ones are good,as are the leather.freight from the usa is expensive these days, about us$70 so watch the nz$400 limit, after which, liable for gst on total expenditure.