I'm really keen to know too MH. I don't want to know the whys, the hows are of more benefit
I'm really keen to know too MH. I don't want to know the whys, the hows are of more benefit
interesting , a negative view on this posted link
Brackett’s Formula for Failure | BorderWars
Last edited by el borracho; 15-04-2013 at 11:31 PM.
Tweed or not to Tweed that is the question
Not much of a fan of Brackett either.
Brackett was of an era when the stud got all the glory for successful progeny, a notion quite popular in the UK and the States even to this day. Most people today acknowledge the dam has an equal, if not greater part in the inheritance of certain sex-related genes.
I can now see why some don't like to discuss their breeding thoughts -so much theory on whose got what and what works bests.
Tweed or not to Tweed that is the question
Yeah. The proof is in the pudding as they say
What proof and what pudding... invariably this would want to return to the old trial versus working versus Im happy with my dog, ok!! and obviously genetics are alas taboo, so that leaves, um, birds...
As they say in the old country...
The only thing two gundog trainers will ever agree on is that a third trainer is doing it all wrong.
...amitie, respect mutuel et amour...
...le beau et le bon, cela rime avec Breton!...
trial versus working are the self same dogs !!!
Tweed or not to Tweed that is the question
Righto, first ensure that your bitch is well fed, has lots of exercise etc before she is in whelp, she must have at least a hour or more of run each day during pregnancy and that has to include gallops...do not increase her feed but feed her as good as food as possible ie up the meat...but feed her like there is no tomorrow once she has gotten over her whelping 'fast'...a Spring/Summer litter is preferable to an Autumn/Winter litter...if you want to be pedantic, advise your vet of the bitch's impending whelping just in case help is required...ensure that the bitch can voluntarily leave the whelps (ie an adequate sized whelping box) to attend to her ablutions and for exercise...worm the puppies throughout their eight weeks because they inherit a worm burden from the bitch...never let a puppy go under eight weeks...feed puppies individually, that way you can monitor their appetites and adjust amounts...accustom puppies to loud noises etc...spend as much time as is possible with the puppies, from birth...
There are three nines to the bitch and puppies...
Nine weeks gestation where the focus is constantly on the care of the dam
Nine weeks care of the litter, their weaning and their departure to their new homes
Nine months of the rearing of the puppies where their diet and exercise will lay down the foundation for a dog which is healthy and develops good barrel development and strong limbs.
...amitie, respect mutuel et amour...
...le beau et le bon, cela rime avec Breton!...
I feed the pups very differently EB, it's also the way the main pack is feed (note here, no labs involved)
The whole lot are over feed together. Not in one big pile, but a few smaller ones spread over about four metres. There is no fights over food cause they all know there is more than enough. So there can be around 10-14 adult dogs plus a few pups having a feed. After the main biscuit feed they are hand fed fat, at the moment every second day.
The pups are also feed after the main feed on some better tucker, being pups they just don't get much at the main one, but it's great having them involved in it.
Of pups I've breed none are gutses or fight over food, some pups I've bought have been a bit that way. For me it's a PITA.
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