Thread: What would you pay for a pup?

I paid $1500 for my Vislador ( had to look it up since it sounded like they made the name up). You risk the life of the bitch every time you breed her so if it's just to make a few dollars I would urge caution. Bred a few Rotties quite a few years ago, and dependant on litter size you may need to supplement the pups which means feeding every 2 hours for a while.

I paid 2.5k for my ESS with his papers and bloodline paperwork from one of the top breeders in the country. Most of the pups go to the police and customs, with a few going to trainers and agility coaches. I just got very lucky getting him. All the breeder asked was that I keep in touch if any issues come up with him, and for pictures of his development. He's my third ESS and is a total unit

Originally Posted by Ryan_Songhurst

I think it's retarded breeding dogs just for shits and giggles. Sure if you have buyers lined up wanting pups from a proven dog then knock yourself out but there's enough dogs already in this country that have shit lives, get put down, or end up wards of the spca etc to just go breeding your dog for no real reason.

This one gets a real hard life

Breeding clause on beagle.She got zipped up.Shame really,buitifull dog.

I would pay nothing if the dam and sire of the pup had no health checks such as eye score and hip elbow scores. As one who has had a great bitch that won 3 National gundog titles [in the lower classes] only to break down as a 5 year old dog and have to be put down was bloody heart breaking.

Originally Posted by BRADS

We pay 100 max for good working farm pups
Heck, some of you have too much $

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That's good going.
Our litter has cost us at 8 weeks, $450 per pup. That's with first jab and being wormed every fortnight. Feeding them premium food was the big cost.
So selling them for under $500 would barely cover costs!

Thanks all. That pretty much confirms our thinking. The main reason for doing it would be for the kids to experience it, but if it’s unlikely we would make anything from the exercise then I don’t think I want to go there

Having and rearing a little can have benificial effects on a bitch.

The answer is to be found by looking at what pups sell for on TM. The pet market is much bigger than the hunting market and pups born in spring and ready for Christmas or that can be held to just after will find a ready market. Sire breed will also make a big difference. Check what is in demand - for hunting cross with GWHP Pet, probably go black lab

Originally Posted by mikee

The term is SPCA Specials, I cannot fathom people paying huge money for in essence "mutts" with promises like . don't shed and low allergies............usually sold to unsuspecting new dog owners!!!

Having something to do with the pedigree dog space, I know it would be rare for a breeder of pedigree dogs to do designer dogs. The risk to a valuable bitch/breeding line, plus the worth of pedigree animals and the litter limits on bitches mean that it's not worth it for them to waste a litter on a X.
That leads me to one of 3 conclusions about designer dog breeders:
1. They're in it for the money (don't care about the dogs)
2. Someone has broken a non-breeding contract at some point in the past (maybe years back, which casts doubts on the trueness of the breeding lines.
3. The dogs they claim are pure probably aren't, but look close enough, which means they either don't know their stuff or are ripping you off.

Conclusions 1 and 2 increase your chances of getting a dog with genetic problems. Conclusions 2 and 3 mean you might not get what you thought you were ordering.

In short, stay away from 'designer dogs'. I really hope the crosses are healthy.

Go for the capabilities of the parent dogs rather than specific mixes and get from someone with referees. Any pedigree breeder would give you a certificate proving genetic defects - Dogsnz are really cracking down on this sort of thing, so it will pay to ask any breeder asking good money if they've tested their dogs. Might save you some pain (wallet/ untimely death of your mate).

Identify your target beyond all doubt because you never miss (right?) and I'll be missed.

Edit: This applies at the very least to whippets, but I suspect other breeds also

100 bucks more than the SPCA and trademe dog rescues charge. I don't believe that 2 pedigrees and 2 x fifty cents equals a dollar so I don't really see the point in spending thousands on one.

Originally Posted by mopheadrob

Hi all.

We’re considering breeding Sacha, our 2 year old lab / vizsla cross. We haven’t done this before but are under no illusions about the time, cost & risk involved, so we’re trying to decide if it’s worth it.

She’s a gorgeous dog with a strong hunting drive and has been a dream to train. As she’s not purebred we will probably look to put a vizsla or vizslador sire over her so the vizsla traits don’t get watered down too much.

As Sacha is a first cross (F1) from two different breeds she will exhibit hybrid vigor ( heterosis ). If she is crossed back to one of the parent breeds or a cross made from the parent breeds in whole or part, the offspring will loose the hybrid vigor. Crossing to a third and unrelated breed will maintain and increase the HV.
As pure dog breeds have a high inbreeding co-efficient, outcrossing to other breeds is a good idea and will in most cases produce a hardier, longer lived, more vigorous and all round better utility type dog than the pure parent breeds

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

As Sacha is a first cross (F1) from two different breeds she will exhibit hybrid vigor ( heterosis ). If she is crossed back to one of the parent breeds or a cross made from the parent breeds in whole or part, the offspring will loose the hybrid vigor. Crossing to a third and unrelated breed will maintain and increase the HV.
As pure dog breeds have a high inbreeding co-efficient, outcrossing to other breeds is a good idea and will in most cases produce a hardier, longer lived, more vigorous and all round better utility type dog than the pure parent breeds

Good theory but its not true in every case, as you say..

If you want a healthy long lived dog the best idea is health checks on the parents.. Backyard breeders rarely [if ever] do this, responsible breeders do.

In short, stay away from 'designer dogs'. I really hope the crosses are healthy.

As MOA is conveying....

The theory is a statistical outcome. You would be more likely to have interbred problems by staying within a breed, than by crossing out of it. That assumes of course that you are making an informed cross about optimising outcomes with the selection of the introduced variety.

The above statement is just wrong by implication if informed choice is sound. A broader gene pool is more desirable in general that a narrower one is.

That of course doesn't mean that people aren't stupid, greedy, or incompetent about such things...

That's why I thought my Huntaway should have been pretty healthy but he ended up with diabetes which was a right pain in the whatsit

Originally Posted by Moa Hunter

As Sacha is a first cross (F1) from two different breeds she will exhibit hybrid vigor ( heterosis ). If she is crossed back to one of the parent breeds or a cross made from the parent breeds in whole or part, the offspring will loose the hybrid vigor. Crossing to a third and unrelated breed will maintain and increase the HV.
As pure dog breeds have a high inbreeding co-efficient, outcrossing to other breeds is a good idea and will in most cases produce a hardier, longer lived, more vigorous and all round better utility type dog than the pure parent breeds