Thread: Bare shaft tuning

So the plot thickens. After getting what I thought was a perfect arrow flight on paper turns out to be a big unaligned mess when I took it outside to test. My arrow pokes way out to one side. And my sights had to be set even further out to that side to get the arrow to hit the target at 10 yards. Any more ideas?

OK ......
I’m no expert, but that setup is completely wrong .
My advice if you want it is this .

Take your sight off the bow , adjust your rest so that the center of the arrow is 13/16 off the riser .
Set your nock height at 90 degrees , you can play with the height as things progress, but start at 90 .
Then the real mission starts , because your shooting form now comes into play .
If you cant consistently shoot with the correct form you will chase your tail .
You need to blank bail shoot for a while then try paper tuning.

Originally Posted by Ground Control

OK ......
I’m no expert, but that setup is completely wrong .
My advice if you want it is this .

Take your sight off the bow , adjust your rest so that the center of the arrow is 13/16 off the riser .
Set your nock height at 90 degrees , you can play with the height as things progress, but start at 90 .
Then the real mission starts , because your shooting form now comes into play .
If you cant consistently shoot with the correct form you will chase your tail .
You need to blank bail shoot for a while then try paper tuning.

OK, so before i started the whole paper tune thing, i set the bow up out of the box the way you've just said to do, and shot for a couple weeks every day with it like that. it shot well with normal arrows and field tips, tight groups almost touching most of the time. always start at 10, then 20, then 30, then 40, then 50 each time making sure i have good form, correct grip, follow through etc till i get tired and can feel it getting sloppy so i stop for the day. its just since paper tuning and the bow has gone way out on the piss like that, it will shoot a bullet hole with a bare shaft and dead center with a fletched at about 3 yards i measured just now.
im having fun learning all this so im not stressing about it going all haywire its just a bit confusing when videos etc say "this is all you need to do to tune" but in saying that ill go back to the start again and see how i go.

I found some broadheads tended to fly more true, while others simply wouldn't group for love or money. Have you tried more than one type? What are you using?

Originally Posted by Bol Tackshin

I found some broadheads tended to fly more true, while others simply wouldn't group for love or money. Have you tried more than one type? What are you using?

iv got some interlock broadheads, it sounds like iv got a few more issues i need to iron out before i can blame the heads haha.

Fair enough... Tuning a compound to shoot well is a cross between science and art... Hang in there!

Just my two cents, you could be torquing the bow or the bow is out of tune, if you just gripped and ripped it out if the box the timing might be out. Fixed blade broad heads are bitch to getting shooting the same as a field point, the easiest I have found are slick tricks. Where are you situated? If you are close to Tauranga I will be able to help you figure stuff out after we have been released from our cages.


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This article might help with paper tuning
https://www.lancasterarchery.com/blog/paper-tuning-101/

Did a shop set it up for you? Theres quite a bit that should really be confirmed first before you even start trying to tune using the rest watch the latest video of John Dudley of Nock On Archery seting up Joe Rogans new bow. It will give you an idea of whats required to be done out of the box. Ideally the rest should only correct minor issues.

Originally Posted by Stocky

Did a shop set it up for you? Theres quite a bit that should really be confirmed first before you even start trying to tune using the rest watch the latest video of John Dudley of Nock On Archery seting up Joe Rogans new bow. It will give you an idea of whats required to be done out of the box. Ideally the rest should only correct minor issues.

No I bought it online so it arrived factory setup. I'll have a look for that video aswell. The more I look into it the more other stuff like cam timing (even though its single cam) and cam lean etc that could be causing some of the problem. All very interesting

What is the length of your arrows? Weight of FP? Weight of BH? @silentscope

Originally Posted by silentscope

No I bought it online so it arrived factory setup. I'll have a look for that video aswell. The more I look into it the more other stuff like cam timing (even though its single cam) and cam lean etc that could be causing some of the problem. All very interesting

Morning, yes, that could be some of your problem. Has the draw length been set for you? As you shoot a new bow the strings stretch a bit so the timing tends to bugger out a bit. It can all be very confusing.


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Originally Posted by Boar Freak

What is the length of your arrows? Weight of FP? Weight of BH? @silentscope

I had them made to 29.5 inch, which is what my draw length was measured up as a couple years ago when I was looking at getting a bow. Heads are both 100 grain.

Originally Posted by silentscope

No I bought it online so it arrived factory setup. I'll have a look for that video aswell. The more I look into it the more other stuff like cam timing (even though its single cam) and cam lean etc that could be causing some of the problem. All very interesting

Um factory setup isn't really a thing unless you mean a store like advanced archery set it up then shipped it to you. Did the rest and sight etc come fitted? Is there a peep fitted?

Originally Posted by Stocky

Um factory setup isn't really a thing unless you mean a store like advanced archery set it up then shipped it to you. Did the rest and sight etc come fitted? Is there a peep fitted?

It come with everything attached out of the box. I set my peep and my draw length and centered my rest and went from there.