Thread: Bare shaft tuning

Do these limbs look to be on an angle from the riser or is that normal...

Originally Posted by silentscope

Attachment 136305
Do these limbs look to be on an angle from the riser or is that normal...

If you took that picture exactly from above than yes that that looks a bit wonky.

For when this is COVID business is all over, I'd recommend this book.Tuning your compound bow - by Larry Wise.
https://larrywise.com/product/tuning...ow4th-edition/

When I still owned a bow it was a real treasure, but I lent it to someone a few years back and it never came back to me.

Originally Posted by Boar Freak

If you took that picture exactly from above than yes that that looks a bit wonky.

Is that worth worrying about?

Originally Posted by silentscope

Is that worth worrying about?

I'd be careful mate. It seems your a bit out of your depth. It's hard to tel from photos but if it is leaning your more likely to derail your bow and have a big fuck up. It looks like you brought a RTS (ready to shoot) kit. Which is a misnomer. In that they mean it's got all the bits to shoot but is most definitely not tuned. The cams can be moved with bushings if it's similar to my pse which may mean they are out of wack leading to the lean if there is lean (hard to tell from the photos). I'd go to see Paddy Long in Chch after lockdown. Www.bowhunt.co.nz is his website I think.

Originally Posted by Stocky

I'd be careful mate. It seems your a bit out of your depth. It's hard to tel from photos but if it is leaning your more likely to derail your bow and have a big fuck up. It looks like you brought a RTS (ready to shoot) kit. Which is a misnomer. In that they mean it's got all the bits to shoot but is most definitely not tuned. The cams can be moved with bushings if it's similar to my pse which may mean they are out of wack leading to the lean if there is lean (hard to tell from the photos). I'd go to see Paddy Long in Chch after lockdown. Www.bowhunt.co.nz is his website I think.

I'm not messing with any of that stuff more just curious of whats normal

Originally Posted by silentscope

I'm not messing with any of that stuff more just curious of whats normal

What I mean is that to even it out if its a tuning issue you need to usually either swap shims to move cams left or right or add twists to one side on the cable to even up the lean. Both of which require a bow press. What's normal is for the cams limbs and limbs to be parralel with the string. It's not normal to have things not all straight or very close to straight. Derailments are genuinely dodgy and the violence of them often projects the peeps out of the string and has blinded people before.

Shoot it if you like but with the limited info you've provided I'm not going to say it's safe or normal. The irratic bare shaft is telling you something isn't right.

I wouldn't shoot it if it's really that much out line. But there is a fairly easy 4 step fix 1. take bow back to place of purchase 2. ask for refund 3. buy Hoyt, Mathews or Bowtech 4. take new bow home and enjoy shooting it.

Sorry mate couldn't help it.

Get in touch with shop and ask them to sort it out.

Hi there,
I don't shoot compounds so I can't help with the how corrections.
What I can tell you is the process to bare shaft tune to get to broadhead.

You first shoot 3 fletched arrows and 3 bareshaft from a close distance, like 3 meters to start with, angles and groups in between the 2 will tell you what to change.
Because you shoot a compound, if you are decent you are going to destroy your arrows, so shoot 3 different points on the target, one bare and one fletched arrow each.

For trad bows, we change the weight of heads and lengh of the arrow to play with the dynamic stiffness of the arrow. (basically, if you had some weight a front its more bendy, if you shorten the arrow its less, and vis and versa). On a compound, you can "cheat" by moving the alignment of the arrow.
The theory behind it is that fletching corrects imperfections, so you compare fletched (corrected) against bareshaft;
You can correct as per the image bellow

Correct until your bareshafts and arrows group the same, then go back a bit till you have a good group at 20meters (bareshafts won't fly with as a good ballistic, at some point the will shoot lower). When your group match both your fletched and bare should point in the same direction.
You then repeat the same process with Fletched arrows with BH and FP, the theory is a broadhead will work as a wing as well and mess with the flight. so your corrected is the fletched non-broadheads.
Things to consider if you have erratic results and out of alignment results.
Some BH shoot like S*** favor multi-blades and or really high ends double blades. If you cant get it to work it might just be that your shafts are too stiff or too flexible. You can only correct so much by moving the biscuit.

Originally Posted by Boar Freak

I wouldn't shoot it if it's really that much out line. But there is a fairly easy 4 step fix 1. take bow back to place of purchase 2. ask for refund 3. buy Hoyt, Mathews or Bowtech 4. take new bow home and enjoy shooting it.

Sorry mate couldn't help it.

Get in touch with shop and ask them to sort it out.

Bows are one of those things that require being setup by someone that knows there shit. Bows need tuning so broadheads fly the same as field points. This is an extra unless you kit yourself out to do it or have it done by the place you got the bow from. I'm guessing you ordered online which may make things difficult. Paddy longs a good guys hold be able to sort you out pretty quick.

Originally Posted by Boar Freak

I wouldn't shoot it if it's really that much out line. But there is a fairly easy 4 step fix 1. take bow back to place of purchase 2. ask for refund 3. buy Hoyt, Mathews or Bowtech 4. take new bow home and enjoy shooting it.

Sorry mate couldn't help it.

Get in touch with shop and ask them to sort it out.

sad thing is a couple years back i had a hoyt but didnt get to use it before it had to be sold. this was just entry back into the bow hunting game. didnt realize it was going to be such a mess to set up. im willing to put some time into it tho its fun figuring it all out.

Originally Posted by Stocky

Bows are one of those things that require being setup by someone that knows there shit. Bows need tuning so broadheads fly the same as field points. This is an extra unless you kit yourself out to do it or have it done by the place you got the bow from. I'm guessing you ordered online which may make things difficult. Paddy longs a good guys hold be able to sort you out pretty quick.

yeah was an online order, ill have a chat to paddy and see what he can do for me. would like to be able to suss it myself but youre right about letting the expert do it.

Originally Posted by silentscope

yeah was an online order, ill have a chat to paddy and see what he can do for me. would like to be able to suss it myself but youre right about letting the expert do it.

Go in have him set it up with you so you can learn how and pick up a bow press (build one or buy a cable style) and you will be able to do it next time. Youtubes a bloody good place to learn how its how i learnt to do mine and am mostly kitted out now. Just waiting on a new bow to arrive as well will be the first I've not had any input from a store although ive setup my old bows for my partner and new buyers a couple times.

Done some more playing over the last week or so. Major find was with my cam I have 2 settings which I had no idea about to turns out I didnt have the performance adjustment matched to my draw length. Once I put that right the bow felt completely different and shot alot better. I paper tuned and have managed 15 yard bare shaft and field tip groups and I'm pretty bloody happy with it now.

Originally Posted by Tak3o

Thank you for that image, it really helped me understand the idea behind bare shaft tuning.