Thread: Bare shaft tuning

Just thought I'd add a bit more on some more findings incase anyone was interested.
Iv changed my arrow spine from 300 to 340 and found that the bow shot ALOT tighter groups. Back on the paper I also added a couple of extra turns onto my yoke to straighten up the cam which has brought the entire bow into alignment alot better now I am shooting excellent groups right out to 50 yards with both field tips and broad heads. I'm glad I persevered and iv learnt alot about the mechanics to getting them shooting just right in the process and now I'm ready to hit the bush in search of that first blood.

Originally Posted by silentscope

Just thought I'd add a bit more on some more findings incase anyone was interested.
Iv changed my arrow spine from 300 to 340 and found that the bow shot ALOT tighter groups. Back on the paper I also added a couple of extra turns onto my yoke to straighten up the cam which has brought the entire bow into alignment alot better now I am shooting excellent groups right out to 50 yards with both field tips and broad heads. I'm glad I persevered and iv learnt alot about the mechanics to getting them shooting just right in the process and now I'm ready to hit the bush in search of that first blood.

Are your Broadheads hitting the same point of aim as the field tips ?

Originally Posted by Ground Control

Are your Broadheads hitting the same point of aim as the field tips ?

Yes both hitting same point of aim. They also both make bullet holes on paper at 20y I tested that today.

Doh! I should have thought of that! Arrow spine is a fundamental and underspined arrows are a pretty obvious reason for weird groups. What do the spine charts say is optimal for your setup?

Originally Posted by silentscope

Yes both hitting same point of aim. They also both make bullet holes on paper at 20y I tested that today.

Your lucky

Often you need to do some adjustments to get the two different arrows groups to merge and center up .
Shooting Bows is great fun and it’s kind of overtaken my interest in firearms for now .
Post up some pics and reports of your progress, I’m sure I’m not the only one interested.

Originally Posted by Bol Tackshin

Doh! I should have thought of that! Arrow spine is a fundamental and underspined arrows are a pretty obvious reason for weird groups. What do the spine charts say is optimal for your setup?

The gold tip chart said 300. And after trying those for a good few weeks I decided to try a 340 which has proven to be a far better choice.

Originally Posted by Ground Control

Your lucky

Often you need to do some adjustments to get the two different arrows groups to merge and center up .
Shooting Bows is great fun and it’s kind of overtaken my interest in firearms for now .
Post up some pics and reports of your progress, I’m sure I’m not the only one interested.

I'm definately taking my luck it as a win. Bow shooting is definately fun it takes alot of time and practice to master but I'm certainly going to enjoy the challenge of making it all work once I get some game in front of me.

Originally Posted by silentscope

Just thought I'd add a bit more on some more findings incase anyone was interested.
Iv changed my arrow spine from 300 to 340 and found that the bow shot ALOT tighter groups. Back on the paper I also added a couple of extra turns onto my yoke to straighten up the cam which has brought the entire bow into alignment alot better now I am shooting excellent groups right out to 50 yards with both field tips and broad heads. I'm glad I persevered and iv learnt alot about the mechanics to getting them shooting just right in the process and now I'm ready to hit the bush in search of that first blood.

Personally I don’t waste my time with paper tuning ..you banging a bareshaft with field tip hitting square into a target at 20m then you know the bow is shooting bullets holes without the need for freeback from the paper test ..in order for one to shoot any Broadhead on point the bow needs to be super tuned ..messing with the rest will alleviate some issues for some broadheads but will be shit for others ..super tuned bow will have you hitting x’s out to a 100 easy with any Broadhead ..

Have my own little archery workshop and tune me own bows make my own threads n arrows ..been out of the game for the last 3 years because of a renovation but slowly working my way back into it again so much to learn


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Originally Posted by Kiwininja

Personally I don’t waste my time with paper tuning ..you banging a bareshaft with field tip hitting square into a target at 20m then you know the bow is shooting bullets holes without the need for freeback from the paper test ..in order for one to shoot any Broadhead on point the bow needs to be super tuned ..messing with the rest will alleviate some issues for some broadheads but will be shit for others ..super tuned bow will have you hitting x’s out to a 100 easy with any Broadhead ..

Have my own little archery workshop and tune me own bows make my own threads n arrows ..been out of the game for the last 3 years because of a renovation but slowly working my way back into it again so much to learn Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As a newbie, I am looking forward to your posts, as you say, so much to learn.

I've been confined, due to lock down and also waiting on an operation, so I've been learning as much as I can, about archery, from the interweb and the uTubery, but have yet to have hands on experience with my bow (NZPost compulsory delays).

I am making: a target out of layered banana boxes, a set of stabilisers out of aluminium tube, brass washers and well nuts, and I've assembled a little tool kit with all the things uTube reckons yer need

I reckon I'll be spending the winter, tuning and getting to know my bow, and practise, practise, practise.

I hope that new as I am, I'll be able to ask questions here on this board and get input from seasoned bowyers, such as your self.

Originally Posted by MarkN

As a newbie, I am looking forward to your posts, as you say, so much to learn.

I've been confined, due to lock down and also waiting on an operation, so I've been learning as much as I can, about archery, from the interweb and the uTubery, but have yet to have hands on experience with my bow (NZPost compulsory delays).

I am making: a target out of layered banana boxes, a set of stabilisers out of aluminium tube, brass washers and well nuts, and I've assembled a little tool kit with all the things uTube reckons yer need

I reckon I'll be spending the winter, tuning and getting to know my bow, and practise, practise, practise.

I hope that new as I am, I'll be able to ask questions here on this board and get input from seasoned bowyers, such as your self.

What kind of bow did you purchase? What part of the country do you call home? And yes unfortunately with archery one has to practice practice practice to get clean releases strengthen the shoulders n back ..
If you are a rifle shooting as well you will know if you need more power in your archery shot you have to be able to pull so much poundage where as a 308 bullet wether you strong or not as strong you still get 308 worth


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Originally Posted by Kiwininja

What kind of bow did you purchase? What part of the country do you call home?

I got something called a Kaimei Qin with arrows &c, I could only afford a cheapy, so I bought what I thought, was a similarly specced to, and what looked like, a good one if it was from the USA.

Axle-to-Axle:30 5/8"
Bow Length:35.4"
Bow Riser Material: High strength aluminum alloy
Limb material: Reinforced composite
IBO speed: 329fps
Draw Length: 16-31.5"
Brace Weight:7.25"
Draw weight: 30-70lbs (adjustable)
Let Off: 80%
Arrows:30" carbon arrow SP500
Camo finish

I think I'll dial it back, to about 45~55 lbs until I get good at it, then make it stronger.

I'm in Auckland, but I get around the North Island a bit and often see turkeys and hares and even goats and pigs on the roadside verges in the dawn.

Originally Posted by MarkN

I got something called a Kaimei Qin with arrows &c, I could only afford a cheapy, so I bought what I thought, was a similarly specced to, and what looked like, a good one if it was from the USA.

Axle-to-Axle:30 5/8"
Bow Length:35.4"
Bow Riser Material: High strength aluminum alloy
Limb material: Reinforced composite
IBO speed: 329fps
Draw Length: 16-31.5"
Brace Weight:7.25"
Draw weight: 30-70lbs (adjustable)
Let Off: 80%
Arrows:30" carbon arrow SP500
Camo finish

I think I'll dial it back, to about 45~55 lbs until I get good at it, then make it stronger.

I'm in Auckland, but I get around the North Island a bit and often see turkeys and hares and even goats and pigs on the roadside verges in the dawn.


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Attachment 139969

Ok I have always wondered about that bow on AliExpress only problem is them Chinese companies like to tell a few porkies in regards to the specs ..

first I doubt it will be a true 70lb ..now I would guess more 60lb and will not be throwing a 350 grain arrow 329 fps downrange ..more 280-290 even that’s generous I feel ..the 500 spined arrow will be good from 35lbs - 50lbs need 400 for the rest of the poundage as a said wont be the full kit (70lbs) and the string will be cheaply made hence the rubber connected from peep to cable but that can be remedied by either purchasing new thread or tweaking the string by getting rid of the rubber and tying the peel properly, depending on how shit the string is ..

I have a soft spot for the second class citizen budget bows including name brands as the don’t have the tech that more expensive bows do but are still capable of shooting solid in accuracy and hitting power ..just need to give em the love they need to excel at a higher level


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Thanks for your comments Kiwininja, once I get my bow, I can measure and we'll see what it actually is

Originally Posted by Kiwininja

Ok I have always wondered about that bow on AliExpress

Re: AliExpress, over the years, I have never had a good experience with AliExpress, I don't use them, other than to round out my research, when I'm buying something. Back in the day I used to use ChinaBuye for tat, then BangGood and others, but I soon found out, that all the suppliers, big enough to have a business proper, were on eBay.com (not any of the regional variants, like .com.au) and that by using eBay, I was accessing the broadest range of prices. Often one item, will be offered by up to fifty different sellers, with varying prices and seller reputations and so on. So I get to play researcher for a while, before I buy, and then there's the google lever, to ascertain further information, before I send money, to a chap in a shed, in rural China, in a singlet, with a cigarette hanging out of the corner of his mouth... But the seller of this bow, was quick as a greased pig, in my pre-sales conversation, helpful, regarding packaging and tracking and shipping etc, so I'd rate them kindly, in terms of pre-sales professionalism.

only problem is them Chinese companies like to tell a few porkies in regards to the specs .. first I doubt it will be a true 70lb ..now I would guess more 60lb and will not be throwing a 350 grain arrow 329 fps downrange ..more 280-290 even that’s generous I feel ..the 500 spined arrow will be good from 35lbs - 50lbs need 400 for the rest of the poundage as a said wont be the full kit (70lbs)

This was my thought process when I started on the journey to get a bow. I need a $40 recurve to keep in the car, to ping the odd rabbit or turkey, wait minute, there're some nice looking bows in the $200 range and what about these compounds? they look complicated, whooaaa! then I saw the gadgets and the adjustimos, - and I was hooked.

So when I started, I was looking for a compound in the range of 45~55 lbs. Knowing as you do, that some Chinese advertising is just that, advertising, I thought I'd get one that was over-specced. Like getting a V12 Merc as a shopping cart. The 500 spine Arrows will be retired, as my skills and knowledge progress. I've got some 400 SP ones coming, for stage two and then in about a year when I really do know what I'm talking about, I'll get some exacto-spined arrows the range 300~350 that are correct for my bow, draw length, poundage etc.

and the string will be cheaply made hence the rubber connected from peep to cable but that can be remedied by either purchasing new thread or tweaking the string by getting rid of the rubber and tying the peel properly, depending on how shit the string is ...

Yes, I've been in contact with a local who makes strings, for the future, when I need a new one. Peep sight: I'm thinking I'll use the supplied one for now until I find out whether I need a "Clarifier" or "Verifier", both of which seem like expensive add-ons. There is part of me that does wonder if all the "must haves" are really necessary. I'd be interested in your opinion on the speed beads, discussed in a separate thread. https://www.nzhuntingandshooting.co....ct-true-61010/

I have a soft spot for the second class citizen budget bows including name brands as the don’t have the tech that more expensive bows do but are still capable of shooting solid in accuracy and hitting power ..just need to give em the love they need to excel at a higher level

This also figured in my mind, I'm not an Olympian and I'll never be running up and down the Southern Alps, or making expeditions into Fiordland for Moose, so I don't need the biggest and the best, but if it's cheap I could try it. Also I've been through the Chinese vs NZ made thing, with Kayaks and I've had two Chinese made ones, that are tip top in quality vs the NZ ones at $1,000 more for almost the same thing.

I'm likely to be hunting Rabbit, Hare, Turkey, small to medium Goat or Pig. At my age and health, A big Pig or even a moderate Deer would be too much for me to carry any distance and, I would never shoot an animal, for one leg or a trophy.

I'm likely to be hunting Rabbit, Hare, Turkey, small to medium Goat or Pig. At my age and health, A big Pig or even a moderate Deer would be too much for me to carry any distance and, I would never shoot an animal, for one leg or a trophy.[/QUOTE]

Unless you smashing a 150 pounder pig and above 200 or 250 would be overkill ..you will be surprised what 400 are capable of ..you won’t need that many grains per inch for the likes of goats, rabbits etc ..you 35lb will do the trick with a 500 spined arrow ..pigs you will get away with 400 ..depends on how much FOC and the entire weight of the arrow (525-600 grains) all up will be enough for the job to smack over a 150 pounder ..
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Thanks for that, yes, the arrow sizing charts, give me a range of draw weight options, for the 500 spine arrows, my draw length is, as calculated several times, 29".

All the uTubery I've seen, the arrows go through the rabbit, so my main concern is arrow loss, in that situation. NZPost is holding, for eventual delivery, some Judo broad heads and some of what I think are called Meteor broad heads.

This is because I saw a chap hunting Rabbit in Canada and he shot each of these kinds, to test whether or not he'd lose arrows, he came to the conclusion that both, equally hung up on grass and twigs and brush and stuff, so no lost arrows.